In the ever-evolving culinary world of New York City, a brand new wave of Chinese eateries is taking the town by storm. These establishments, helmed by various restaurateurs, breathe new life into the city’s long-held love affair with Chinese delicacies. From the traditional heart of Chinatown in Lower Manhattan to the bustling streets of Brooklyn and Queens, those restaurants redefine what it means to experience Chinese food inside the Big Apple.
At the vanguard of this culinary renaissance is Hakka Cuisine, a restaurant dedicated to the rich and incredible flavors of the Hakka people. Owned by Wade Li, who sold his three-person daycares to pursue his passion for selling Hakka tradition, the restaurant is a testament to the resilience and flexibility of the Hakka people. The menu features traditional dishes like salt-water chicken and braised pork belly with preserved veggies, alongside more tricky creations like the Blossom chicken, a complex work-extensive dish that involves doing away with a chicken’s skin in one piece, drying it and re-stuffing it with minced shrimp and taro before reassembling and cooking.
Deep in the heart of Chinatown, a group of childhood friends has brought their shared memories to life with Potluck Club. This vibrant restaurant is a tribute to their youth’s Chinese restaurants and movie theaters. The menu, a harmonious blend of Chinese and American flavors, is a testament to their Cantonese-American heritage. Potluck Club celebrates its unique culinary journey from the refreshing endive salad with dragonfruit and cara cara orange to the succulent pork and chive pot-sticker dumplings smothered in homemade chili crisp.
On the other side of the East River in Williamsburg, Bonnie’s is making waves with its vibrant, hip-hop-infused atmosphere and inventive twists on Chinese classics. Calvin Eng, the chef and owner, draws inspiration from his childhood visits to his grandparents in Chinatown and his mother’s Cantonese home cooking. Bonnie’s is a testament to his love for Cantonese flavors and his creative spirit. The menu features unique creations like the McRib with a Chinese twist and cacio e pepe with a Cantonese flair. The stuffed Napa cabbage, with its steamed minced pork and brown shrimp gravy, is a standout dish that showcases Eng’s mastery of Cantonese flavors.
In the West Village, Figure Eight is a cozy outpost that pays tribute to owner Emmeline Zhao’s roots in China and the American South. The menu features small plates with flavorful punch, like the smoked whitefish salad with golden fried saltines and the crispy long beans that coil in on themselves. But the show’s star is undoubtedly the sweetcorn jalapeño buns, a perfect marriage of Southern biscuits, steamed bolo bao, and Betty Crocker pan rolls.
Finally, for those seeking a more traditional yet surprising Sichuan experience, Uluh is a must-visit. This walk-ins-only restaurant boasts a massive menu of classic dishes like scallion pancakes and dan dan noodles, alongside more adventurous offerings like lychee grilled sea bass and black truffle pork soup dumplings. The restaurant’s bustling atmosphere and no-nonsense service only add to its charm, making it a favorite among insiders and skeptics of “modern Chinese food” alike.
As these restaurants continue to thrive and new ones emerge, it’s clear that the future of Chinese cuisine in New York City is in good hands. Whether you’re a lifelong resident or a first-time visitor, these establishments offer a glimpse into the rich tapestry of flavors and cultures that make up the city’s ever-evolving culinary landscape. So grab a pair of chopsticks, dive in, and discover the delicious world of Chinese food in the city that never sleeps.
