The well-known Garden restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel has reopened its doors after being closed for four years. The same 20-foot acacia trees still rise majestically among the familiar 86 seats, making the Garden a favorite place for locals and tourists alike.
However, a new tour of the property and a sit-down with the Garden’s new executive chef revealed many changes not exclusively on the menu at the hotel owned by Beanie Babies billionaire Ty Warner.
Nostalgia Is Key
Maria Tampakis, who previously worked for Heston Blumenthal in London, plans to use nostalgia as a throwback while adding a twist to the menu.
“People are nostalgic for the classics they remember, but I’m going to do them differently, so they’ll remember the flavor, but it will be in a new dish,” Tampakis, the restaurant’s first female executive chef in decades, told Side Dish.
The Food on Offer
Tampakis has cited a signature “Steak Diane” tartare as an example. The cognac and wild mushroom flavors are turned into an emulsion and then folded into the steak tartare.
Other surprises on the revamped menu include foie gras parfait in the shape of an apple that “[welcomes] you back to the Big Apple,” Tampakis says. Lobster thermidor will also be on the menu.
New dishes will include a tiered platter of smoked fish served with mini bagels and an option for caviar and classics such as Beef Wellington with shaved truffles and truffle cream will also be added.
Tampakis, a Bay Ridge, Brooklyn native living on Staten Island with family, said northern Italy will influence the dishes. They include panettone French toast and agnolotti stuffed with short ribs, caramelized onion, and pecorino fondue. Tampakis also shares that she plans to keep the famous lemon ricotta pancakes.
The TY Bar: A Reimagined Space
Aside from the Garden, another spot that has barely changed at the 52-story Arr-Deco Hotel is the TY Bar, formerly known as the TY Lounge. Named for the hotel’s owner, it remains in the grand lobby with a 33-foot glass ceiling and marble columns. The bar features lounge tables and chairs for small parties, which gives the space an intimate feel. Diner favorites like Korean beef tacos will no longer be on the menu.
“When we came back in here, the vision was very clear,” Tampakis stated. “We didn’t want to mess with the bones. It was so important for everyone who came through here. It triggered a core memory of the last time they were here and so the direction was, ‘We aren’t going to change the footprint, but we will change the food and elevate it.’”
Craft Drinks on Offer
The TY Bar will serve luxurious bites and craft drinks, from Gilded Age-inspired “Ty Manhattans” to a “Don Draper”-style martini lunch flight.
Although the cocktails are classics, they have twists. A gin and tonic might have a pear-flavored note or sage and rosemary flavors that surprisingly work together.
“You can go anywhere, so we want not just good, but great bar food. We want to take you to the next level so you want to come back to try the rest,” Tampakis said.
Thoughts on the Past and the Future
During its pre-opening, Tampakis discussed the hotel’s history, noting that most front-of-the-house staff will be “the same faces you remember,” many of whom have worked there for 30 years. 55% of the kitchen staff will also be the same.
“I’m conscious of the struggles we’ll face with a team that hasn’t been here for four years,” Tampakis said. “But this is such an iconic property, and it’s such an incredible opportunity to bring new life here, a new facelift, a new experience.”
Tampakis says that sizing down is a trend to “better focus on the guests we have” and added, “There is so much potential.”
